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Well i just got the excavator set and love it so far just wondering what the max voltage that the power functions can take without frying? My idea was also to check philohome, but anyway. Logic normally works on 5V. It will be able to take 12V I guess but then a built-in convertor like an voltage regulator will still regulate it down to 5V. Some power will be converted to essentially heat, so be sure it will not overheat your PF logic. Maybe use a lab power supply and try it in small steps.
That makes sense im going to assume that it can take at least 10v because i saw someone on here with a 9. I believe though, that the IR receiver has to have an internal power regulator, that despite the power supply in acceptable levelscan keep the data signals on a desired level.
But if you intend to use a voltage regulator, use a low dropout one to avoid run out the batteries fast, rather than the usual Now you have to consider the current need to supply the receiver, and I guess that will depend on what you have connected to it. Of course it has a regulator. It has nothing to do with data signals however. I have made a bunch of PF receivers of my own. Either the uC microcontroller that processes the IR messages works or not.
The capacitors and diodes seen in the brickshelf photos are just there for making it work even better but strictly speaking not necessary although for toy purposes they are of course.
And Xargon can’t get away with using a voltage regulator be it a low dropout or not, he needs an H-bridge etc on it’s own, since if he uses the regulator the motors are also regulated and that is what he doesn’t want. I was just saying that probably the voltage regulator will be the problem when giving it more than 10V.
Agree with the last piece of advice experiment in small stepsbut I seriously doubt PF uses a linear regulator e. It probably uses a small buck converter. There will be some nominal input voltage range that the receiver has been designed to work with, going above that is probably not a good idea. That range may well be quite high, but who knows. Anyone got technical electronic specs for the ?
Before increasing the voltage, I would first measure what the actual output voltage is that you get right now. Six AA batteries produce about 9. A quick way to check it is this way: Then connect it to the PF receiver powered by the same 6 AA battery pack and see if it.
I’m running a 9. It provides a lot more grunt to run the motors than a PF battery box with fresh alkalines, and it’s rechargeable. Not knowing the specific details of the receiver’s innards, I wouldn’t run them on much more than that for fear of letting the smoke out. Whatever you decide to do, I’ve got a tutorial for making a battery adapter in my mods thread. Buffalo can you test the output on your 9.
Philo tested all the motors on his motor page at 12V and they apparently worked fine, although he has a warning about it at the bottom. I tried out a few of fine at 12V just to see if they work, but haven’t used them in actual models. My guess is that the actual motor cores TLG uses are designed for 12V operation anyway. You probably need to be more careful with the IR receivers or lights though. I’d be interested to hear the outcome of this. I can’t check it until I get home in Septemberbut judging from all the comments about how the works less well on rechargeable batteries, I’d expect that the voltage is passed straight through Well i just got down to it and did it.
Just fully charged the battery dataeheet Seems like a good enough plan. This should work except for the fact that there is no protection circuitry for the Li-Po. Make sure not to run it too low on voltage before recharging or it will explode. Thats the plan have a lipo cell checker that i can use to see what level it is when i go to use it.
You can only buy it in the Power Functions expansion set which also comes with a bunch of other stuff including an M-motor, LED lights, and a pole reverser.
So far I only found the datasheet for LB M. Though they may work the same way, there’s probably a slight difference on some specification, because the “M” should stand for something and I didn’t find so far what it is, so be aware. One note for now. The LB M has max voltage supply of Maybe I’ll try to sketch a partial schematic, if I find the time and mood.
Made also a video where some measurements can be seen. Devices attached to the receiver, dagasheet controlled by the remote, are regulated by PWM signals at a frequency of Hz, and 7 forward, and 7 reverse, levels are provided, plus stop.
Datasheef cycles of the PWM control signal are: For now, datawheet all I could find. Suggestions or corrections are welcome, since part of the time spent on this I was probably more asleep than awaken. A traditional multimeter wasn’t able to measure it correctly. That plane of track on the top side of the board, is that connected to the power functions 9V line?
If so then it appears that the VCC and VS pins on the motor controller follow a rectifier diode of some sort 1N perhaps? Which would also mean that applying a voltage higher than dztasheet 11V would be outside the recommended operation range of the motor controller.
So I think that’s probably our answer. If you’re applying more than 11V or more, you are probably working outside the operating limits of the motor controller, and are asking for trouble It will probably work, but you may be shortening the life of the controller.
OK, watched the video properly. There definitely is no voltage drop. Even more reason not to stick higher voltages on it. I know it’s best to put some notes on the video, but I hadn’t find time to do it so far, but can be seen on it.
But, frustratingly, the datasheets for both are for LBM. I’m now pretty convinced that they’re the same thing I think it would be more obvious if they were not The one sanity check left to do is to probe the voltage on the VCC pin pin 1 of the motor controller.
Datasheet or pinouts of LB, LB , LB , BA
Yes, the chip allow you to have separate voltages for control Vccand for H-bridges Vs1 and Vs2i. I’ll do my homework as soon as possible. Vcc pins 1, 4 and 11 of the LB are directly connected to Vcc line of the battery box, and GND pins 7 and 14 of the LB are similarly connected to GND of the battery box, so the Vcc line on the motor controller IC has the same voltage as the battery box. The load for the receiver are 2 motors and in parallel, connected to just one output.
The batteries used were regular alkaline ones, and they’re not fresh as can be seen from the voltage measured by meter at the left, so higher values for current may be achieved with fresh batteries, though the maximum current that the motor controller LB, allow through GND pin is 1A, so we are close here. I could do some tests with a regulated power supply instead of the batteries, but that wouldn’t be a real scenario, and if unproper limit to current would be set at high level voltages, I might kill my receiver and it would be the end of the fun.
Or maybe it could be a test for the thermal protection of LB if done smoothly. I have something else left to do, but it will take some time.
The partial possible schematic of the receiver. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community.
Already have an account? Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. Posted August 16, Share this post Darasheet to post Share on other sites. Posted August 16, edited. Try here for some pictures though I think they are not valuable for what you need http: Then connect it to the PF receiver powered by the same 6 AA battery pack and see if it turns at the same rpm.
Posted August 17, The battery box is also available on LEGO’s website: Posted August 17, edited. Edited August 17, by rgbrown. So far I manage to take some photos to the IR receiver board. A couple of questions.
TB6612FNG Dual Motor Driver Carrier
You are awesome for dismantling your IR receiver Edit: That was one thing that I checked and they are the same.
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